Barbarian days : a surfing life / William Finnegan.

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    • Abstract:
      Summary: Describes the author's experiences as a lifelong surfer, from his early years in Honolulu through his culturally sophisticated pursuits of perfect waves in some of the world's most exotic locales.
    • Content Notes:
      Off Diamond Head (Honolulu, 1966-67) -- Smell the ocean (California, 1956-65) -- Shock of the new (California, 1968) -- 'Scuse me while I kiss the sky (Maui, 1971) -- The search (South Pacific, 1978) -- Lucky country (Australia, 1978-79) -- Choosing Ethiopia (Asia, Africa, 1979-81) -- Against dereliction (San Francisco, 1983-86) -- Basso profundo (Madeira, 1994-2003) -- Mountains fall into the heart of the sea (New York City, 2002-15).
    • Notes:
      5 22
    • ISBN:
      9781594203473
      1594203474
    • Accession Number:
      861479073
    • Accession Number:
      ccp.962943