Praising Caine.

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      In a sideline to making movies, Michael Caine is a prominent restaurateur. But he might have been an expert vintner--for he knows how to wait for good things to ripen. For nine years he played in British rep theater before getting a meaty film role, in 'Zulu,' at 30; the credit read, 'Introducing Michael Caine.' He starred in 80 or so movies, good, bad and awful, then in his late 60s hit a gold streak of mature roles and quality films. One of these, 'The Quiet American,' contains his boldest, subtlest work; but the events of Sept. 11 delayed the film's release for a year. Again, Caine waited and was rewarded. Last week he was nominated for a Best Actor Academy Award. On March 23, nine days after his 70th birthday, he'll have an aisle seat at the Oscars. Caine deserves, if not an Oscar, a medal of honor for doing justice to Graham Greene's 1955 novel and tunneling into the murky life of its protagonist, the Englishman Thomas Fowler. Sir Maurice Micklewhite--Caine never bothered legally changing his name, so he was knighted in 2000 with the name he got at birth from his fishmonger father. INSET: INSIDE THE OSCAR RACE.